9 people. 4 degrees. 3 nights in the snow.

Looking at this picture, do you really need to ask why we do this?

Destination: Mount Mitchell
Elevation: 6,684 feet to summit
Total miles I hiked: 10.5
Number of hikers in our group: 8 9 (apparently I can’t count)
Number of female hikers in our group: 1
Degrees (low) that we saw on our thermometer: 4
Feet of snow on the ground: About 2
Number of animals seen: 2
Number of animal tracks seen: a lot (I thought they’d all be hibernating …)
Number of times I fell: .5
Number of times people in the group fell: About 30
Number of times Chris fell: About 25
Times I wondered if we’d survive: 1

———

So, 3 nights in the snow and not only did I live to tell about it, but there is a part of me that still wants to be on that mountain.

It was an amazing trip. Kevin and I had a conversation while up there about how interesting it is that we’ve done this three times now, and it’s different every time. Same mountain, different adventure, different moments, different memories.

———

The skinny: I hiked Mount Mitchell for the third year in a row. I wrote about the previous trips here and here. Mount Mitchell is located in the Black Mountain subrange of the Appalachian Mountains, and, at 6,684 feet, it’s the tallest point east of the Mississippi. It’s a very challenging hike even in good conditions, with trails labeled “very strenuous.” Add a couple of feet of snow and ice to the trail, and you can imagine the challenge we were facing …

In fact, the first night, as we set up camp in the snow at the base of the mountain, I wondered if we’d even hike at all. There was snow everywhere!

Day one: When we didn’t see “day” at all

road to campground

Four of us arrived in the middle of the night Thursday night/Friday morning after a pretty crazy drive to get to the campground.  And by “pretty crazy”, I mean snow-covered and knuckle-gripping and “thank God for four-wheel drive” crazy. But we made it, and then we got to camp in it.  

Once we got to base camp (Black Mountain campground), we were surprised to see we weren’t the only people out here – a few other tents were scattered around the campground. That made me feel relieved as I scooted into my bivy sack and spent the entire night in there for the first time (the other time I tried it I chickened out and ended up in the tent.)

Let me explain the bivy thing: I have this one, which is the most expensive, heaviest bivy that REI sells. However, at 2 pounds, it’s still lighter than a tent and it sets up much easier (no wrangling with tent poles as darkness is falling.) The reason I got one is because I get claustrophobic inside a tent. And the bivy allows me to feel closer to the open air. In fact, several times during the night I woke up feeling like I just needed to ground myself, and all I had to do was stick my fingers out into the air for a few moments and then I would feel better.

I also bought a small LED lantern, at an REI employee’s suggestion. He said that if I could put it just outside the bivy, then it would keep me from being claustrophobic. Problem was, I couldn’t get it to work. I don’t know if the batteries were too cold (they were lithium, so they shouldn’t have been) or what, but at 1 a.m. in single digit temperatures, I didn’t try too hard and relied on the firelight, and then the moonlight, and then the sunlight to keep things in perspective for me. And it worked!

Speaking of lights, I also couldn’t get my headlamp to work. So, I was without any lights at all. Not fun while trying to set up camp. Or cook. Or see, well, anything really. When I had to pee in the middle of the night that first night, I woke Chris up to go with me (and then promptly ordered him to turn around).

I was pretty cold that first night – due to the claustrophobia, I have a hard time pulling my mummy sleeping bag all the way around my face. I was actually able to zip it all the way up (a first for me!) but I couldn’t pull it tight. And after the pee break, the slit I left open in my bivy was directly above my head – and I’m pretty sure the wind was blowing straight down into my bag. This I realized as the sun was coming up and it was almost time to get up anyway.

Coming soon … day 2!

This originally appeared on melissaoh.com but I wanted to share it over here as well …

So The Trip Is Over…

But the stories have just begun! 

So it is true that this trip might be complete, and everyone is back in their homes, all warm and comfortable.  But a trip isn’t only defined by “Did I reach my destination?” but also by “What happened along the way?”.

So, with that being stated… I pose a question to all of my weekend warriors out there… What happened on this trip? What were your favorite moments? Will you be back?

Since our trip had 9 sets of eyes viewing the trip, I figured that I would share a quick story of the trip, from my eyes…  My trip had only one purpose to it, and that was getting to the summit.  Mt Mitchell is the first of 40 peaks in North Carolina that I will summit in the next few years.   So with keeping that in mind, I really wanted to arrive at the camp during the night.  Just so that I could give my legs  a little bit of rest before continuing up to the top.  {With over 3,400 feet of elevation gain and only 5.6 miles of trail to hike, getting to the summit and back down to the camp in one day would have been very difficult.}  Kevin, Chadd, Chad, Tyler and myself started towards camp around 11, and through a unfortunate turn of events Chadd turned back.  The rest of us pushed on and walked into camp around 2 in the morning.  I for one was very happy to be able to set up camp and get a good nights rest. 

Upon waking up the next morning, to a very chilly but pleasant day, I was ready to start towards to summit, and after a little bit of warming up and gear changes we started towards our destination.  John, Tyler, Chad, Kevin, Melissa, and myself started on the hike, and roughly half way up the mountain the sky was still blue, with a light breeze in the air.  Sure its cold, but it is winter.  This is the point when Kevin and Melissa decided to head back down the mountain and back towards camp.  John, Chad, Tyler and I pushed forward, splitting off into two groups. 

Trees about 200 yards from the summit.

John and Chad definately were moving a lot quicker than I was, so they moved forward, leaving Tyler and myself about 100 feet behind them the rest of the way up.   At about a quarter of a mile left in the hike, the sky started to change to cloudy and the wind started to really blow. 

We arrived at the summit at 3:30 and found out that the weather was hovering around 2° with a wind gusting near 40 mph (that puts the wind chill near -20).  So to put it mildly, it was COLD.  But I had achieved the goal that I was there for,

At the summit of Mt Mitchell

well at least half of the goal that I was there for.  The thing with hiking to a destination, isn’t just reaching that point, but also getting back to where you start from.  We stayed at the summit for only a short while before heading back down the mountain…

It was after arriving at the mountain when I had any type of major discomfort on the trip, I think it was caused by not eating enough throughout the day.  But just after reaching camp, my body temperature began to drop.  Kevin was nice enough to heat up some water for me and then after I got some warm food in my system I was good to go again.  Chad, Tyler, and I decided to get into our bags early that night and were in bed by 7:30.

Morning came and Chad, Tyler, Kevin and I decided that we wanted to have breakfast at Waffle House, instead of eating at camp.  So we gathered up our gear and hit the trail around 9am.  The hike was rather uneventful, the sun was shining and the wind was light as we followed the trail down to the cars.  After a little bit of packing and a couple more pictures, we decided to drive to Waffle House, have a nice breakfast and then finished the trip home. 

So now to answer my three questions… 1) What happened on this trip?  I was able to summit Mt Mitchell in the winter.  2) What were my favorite moments? They would have to be spending time with some great friends and learning more about myself.  3) Will I be back? I haven’t fully decided… I might but I might not.  After all there are 39 more peaks for me to summit.

Planning the Hike

Planning any hike needs to take various factors into consideration. Choosing the route is one. Making sure everyone knows the route is another. Lets add in some more variables, and see where that takes us:

What is your hiking speed?

Knowing how fast you personally hike is good, but it does nothing to help plan for a group. Unless everyone in the group hikes together often, you have to generalize. Two (2) miles per hour is a good base speed for hiking in a group. Remember that weather can slow you down, and so will elevation. Specifically, you will slow down as you get to higher altitudes. Ice and snow can make you crawl (literally) so make sure to factor in extra time for that. Finally, the weight of your pack will make a difference, so the more days out, the more weight.

One more thing about hiking speed: faster is not better. Just like in a car, moving faster is less efficient, so you will burn more energy by hiking faster. Especially true in winter hiking, with less energy, your body will get colder at night. Also, the faster you hike the more likely to will sweat. If you are sweating when you stop for the night, you are at much higher risk of hypothermia. As Les Stroud often states, “You sweat, you die.”

As in everything, balance is the key, so you do not want to go too slow, either.

Sde note: check out the Rest Step for uphill hiking. Takes discipline, but it works. This is survival, not a race (well, maybe the human race.)

When is Sunrise / Sunset?

Knowing the time for sunrise and sunset are the basis for determining when to do things, assuming you want to do them in the daylight. When determining when to make camp, how long to gather firewood, etc. sunset is what you need to pay close attention to. You can do a search on the Internet to find out the sunrise and sunset times for various days, or even check the Farmer’s Almanac, but here is the thing: sunset is not when gets dark. In fact, here are some definitions relating to sunset that you should be aware of:

  • Sunset is the daily disappearance of the sun below the horizon as a result of the Earth’s rotation.
  • Twilight is the time between dawn and sunrise, and the time between sunset and dusk.
  • Civil Twilight: Morning civil twilight begins when the geometric center of the sun is 6° below the horizon (the point of civil dawn), and ends at sunrise. Evening civil twilight begins at sunset and ends when the center of the sun reaches 6° below the horizon (the point of civil dusk).
  • Nautical Twilight is the time when the center of the sun is between 6° and 12° below the horizon. In general, nautical twilight is the point where navigation via the horizon at sea is no longer possible.
  • Astronomical Twilight is the time when the center of the sun is between 12° and 18° below the horizon. In general, the end of astronomical twilight is the point where the sky no longer illuminated by the sun and is dark enough for all astronomical observations.

So you see, the questions “what time is sunset” and “when does it get dark” are not the same thing. That being said, if camp is setup and firewood is gathered before sunset, you are good to go.

When to rest?

Finally, factors like planned rest stops, rally points, and lunch need to be considered, especially if not everyone is hiking at the same speed. Again, we are assuming daylight hiking, and that you are using the buddy system if the group splits up.

Rest stops are more of a time based concept. Plan something to the effect of a 5 or 10 minute break every 30 to 60 minutes. What these are not good for is getting everyone “caught up.” This is due to the fact that what will happen is that the faster hikers will stop and wait for the slower hikers, and when the slower hikers finally catch up, the faster hikers will want to leave too soon for the slower hikers to rest. Instead of the “catch up” everyone can just rest where they are. For catching up we have rally points. Also, hikers should have enough time to do things like drop their pack, change socks, etc. You should not feel rushed, as this is relaxation time.

Rally points are just that, a place where you wait for everyone to reach (rally together.) You always have planned them, even if it is just when and where to meet to start the hike. On the trail, it is a good idea to have rally points at the more critical points, such as a fork on the map or a technical obstacle. this insures that no one get stuck or lost. Also, water sources are a good rally point, as it allows everyone to purify and refill.  The biggest thing here is to wait, wait, and keep waiting. You do not leave until everyone arrives. If you feel that it is taking too long for everyone to catch up, it is time to double-back and find them. If you have radios, even better. Then you just wait.

As for lunch, a scenic rally point is always a good idea. Personally, I like to snack while hiking, but again we are planning for a group, so it is a good idea to work this in, if needed.

Now, it is obvious that we are not discussing land navigation here, but rather the logistic of a group of hikers. Orienteering skills are essential to a successful hike, as are actually having a map and compass. Many times I have heard the tail of getting lost in the woods and having to spend an extra night. Many times without food or warmth. You will need to plan for these things, as well, but that is for a different post.